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Mitsubishi Galant Gtz 2000 Resource
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Mitsubishi Galant Gtz 2000 Resource in Q&A
anyone know how to fix a Seatbelt on a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ? my backseat seatbelt is completely stuck. It won't budge. I can't seem to figure out how to access the seatbelt to see what the problem isl any ideas?

me too replied: "they are not made too be repaired but replaced for your safety"

Pimp Master MD (dont ask) replied: "Go to an autozone, or any other place that offers mechanic services in your area and have it checked. I would recommend replacing it, they can supply u with the details I am sure."

Molly J replied: "You need to take the panel off."

mark l replied: "Yes."

2000 mitsubishi galant cold air intake? i have a 200 mitsubishi galant gtz v6 and was wondering what my best option for a cheap cold air intake would be. trying to keep it cheap but all i could find was $400 intakes... thx for the help

5ive replied: "your not going to get any power out of a cheap intake off ebay so that just be a waist the lowest price i see cold air intakes go for is around 200.00 the link i posted below is an injen cold air injen makes great products."

Carter replied: "Your going to be paying more for a true cold air intake.... i do not recommend the true cold air intake due to the fact on rainy days the intake could possibly suck up water and hydro lock your engine.. get a short ram.... works really well"

Man replied: "they don't make one for those all the 3.0 v6 are the same its a good engine"

Shin replied: "first off, i really dont think a cold air intake will give u that much more power per dollar you spend extra. And in order for ur car to hydrolock, and for the intake to suck water up, the filter needs to be submerged in water. So your car would have to be rediculously dropped like those ricers with civics AND be going into a deep puddle. Also AEM sells a CAI Bypass valve that you can buy so just incase if u do go into a puddle or what not, u wont hydrolock your engine."

mitsubishi galant stalls at idle after changing battery? the battery connection on my 2000 mitsubishi galant gtz was crusty and car wouldn't start, so a friend removed the connections and cleaned them, now the majority of the time when i start my car i have to keep my foot on gas so it doesn't die. i also have to do this when i slow down (put in neutral and keep foot on gas). Seems to work fine each morning, but then starts doing this again after driving for 15-20 minutes.... what could be causing this? i tend to think it's a loose wire that got jiggled around changing the battery because i've never had a problem until now please help... i don't have tons of money to spend fixing things just to find a loose wire. thanks

dodge man replied: "it sounds like the acid that was on the cable might have eaten in to the wire a little,,because what is making it die,,is ,,its not getting enough out put from the alternator,,re-check your cables really good,,one of them may be loose,,or not tightened up good,,or it may have corrosion,,on the other end of it,,good luck with it,,i hope this help,s."

Mr. KnowItAll replied: "It sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you possible knock a vacuum line off something? Listen for a sucking noise around the engine, and look for a line that is not connected to anything."

Seshananda D replied: "don't worry it don't cost tons of money to fix it.. so i guess u got a new battery so that all good.. i'd say ur friend didn't connect it right.. thus the power from the battery ain't flowing right and the car is stalling at stops.. but if the car is stalling while u're driving like not when u're stopped but when u're moving then ur fuel lines r corrupted.. fuel lines have nothing to do with the battery.. but lookin at ur situation its one of the battery wires isn't connected right r its a little damaged.."

Iknowthisone replied: "Sometimes after a battery is changed a vehicle may exhibit erratic idle characteristics for a period of time until the on-board computer re adapts or learns a good idle strategy. It usually only lasts for a few days and then becomes better providing you don,t have another problem that could be causing it."

Matt replied: "I really like the dodge mans answer above and hope for your sake he is right, but I am afraid that if he is not and that your regulator on your alternator is just not playing the game. Your battery will recharge its self to a certain degree while left doing nothing over an 8 to 12 hour period. Assuming that your regulator is allowing the battery to keep a charge somewhere in the vicinity of 11volts whilst running, the rest period over night will be enough to start a small well tuned engine. However, after the initial start, as the friction heat within your alternator increases, it is possible that the resistance within the regulator is also increasing, reducing the voltage available to keep your battery topped up and keep your car running at idle speeds. PLEASE keep in mind, before you go out and spend a fortune, that a corroded or broken battery cable will give similar side effects and may be obvious, i.e. a cable that heats up significantly during the first 15 mins of running time and/or has obvious discoloration or melting of the insulation. What you really need to do is look at your engine bay for obvious signs, feel around the insulated cables for abnormal inflexibility or heat while or just after the engine has been running. Borrow a Multimeter or voltage meter and see what charge is being put out by your alternator and what voltage your battery is charged at. A normal alternator with a low charged battery should be putting out in the vicinity of 14 volts and as such your battery when fully charged should hold 14 volts. Your battery should be at a minimum of 11 volts after a normal start and should regain the starting charge lost within the first 15 mins of running time. Hope this help and good luck..."

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