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I just replaced the rotors & brakes nissan maxima 05. 16000 miles Is this Normal?? How long should they last the car is a 05 nissan maxima. I replaced the back rotors and pads. How long do these normally last? I was told they should have had at least 30,000 miles on them.

loonatic72 replied: "THey should have lasted longer but it all depends on the driver."

Dan H replied: "30,000 is about right for normal driving. If you drive in stop and go traffic a lot or you ride the brakes, they will wear out faster."

slappy6363 replied: "It depends on some variables. Such as how you drive and what kind of conditions you drive in. Under normal circumstances your brakes should have lasted much longer."

Ralfcoder replied: "I'm not a mechanic, but I'd expect more than 16K miles from the pads, and a lot longer on the rotors. Are you doing any heavy-duty driving, like: - a lot of stop-and-go driving, like delivering mail or newspapers? - do you live on a dirty, dusty road, and the brakes are full of grit? - do you do a lot of fast stops from high speeds? - does a teenager drive the car?"

bobweb replied: "Because it's the back pads AND rotors, I would definitely check further into whether the manufacturer has a service bulletin out on this problem. There may be a fault with the brake proportioning valve that automatically adjusts the brake pressure between the front and rear brakes. Review your service bulletins below. However, I wonder whether the brake shop did some work that wasn't needed when they replaced your front brakes. "

Pedro S replied: "iv had 5 cars that the rear brakes went 100,000 miles... fronts should last at least 30,000 to 60,000......did the car sit a long time? with that low miles maybe the brakes seized up."

Scubaman replied: "Something is drastically wrong, they should last longer than that! especially being the back brakes. Get the brakes tested on a rolling brake tester, perhaps your fronts are poor efficiency, or your rears are sticking on?"

Greasy Tony replied: "I have an 05 Altima with 59000, and I haven't had to replace mine yet. Somethings wrong dude!"

2002 Nissan Maxima. Brakes & Rotors,Which are the best? So i have a 2002 nissan maxima and my brakes and rotors need to be changed. does anyone know which brakes and rotors i should purchase. OEM vs aftermarket. I drive in the city a lot, up and down steep hills(San Francisco) so the rotors and such can get really hot and possibly warp, something i don't want. what is the best bang for your buck OEM, brembo, raybestos, bendix, etc.and why. thanks!

Tim replied: "I shop a lot for brakes. I'm hard on them, use them up fast and do most replacements myself (to save money so I can replace them more often). You can buy some really good (expensive) rotors and pads, but it's no guarantee they won't warp or that they'll last. I've spent a lot, and a little.. . basically the best deal from a cost and "lowering the pain in your rear end" is to do this: Find a good brake shop. Walk in and ask them to inspect the brakes. They will find the pads and rotors need replacing. You ask them if they have any deals where they guarantee the pads or rotors for a "lifetime". Then tell them you want the best pads and rotors they sell, with the lifetime deal. You will pay more... initially! There is no doubt, but this is DEFINITELY a get what you pay for deal. Because they don't want to see you every month, they will put on pretty good stuff. And when anything goes wrong, it will be much cheaper for you to come in and have them fix it (or replace for free - which is what usually happens) the warped rotors. If you are doing it yourself or just think those kinds of deals are a scam, then try this: I've tried the cheapest stuff (local car parts place - $20 shoes and $30 rotors) and was so disappointed, I went back the same day and upgraded to the best they had. It made a HUGE difference, and the quality was there because I got about 30% more mileage out of the high quality part than I did the OEM. That said, I've also had a nice set of Brembo rotors and pads. They were ok, but after about 15k miles of hard use, the rotors (not able to be smoothed or "cut") were junk. That was an expensive lesson. So I would go to the local parts store, get the best they have for your car, and put them on. Some places will sell you the parts and put them on for you. OEM stuff is good stuff, but usually, even for brakes, you can get equal or slightly better stuff for a little less money at the local car parts store. Good luck"

thebax2006 replied: "Go to Advance Auto and buy the cheap Chinese rotors, I've used them for years and have no problems. Just spend the money on their best brake pads so you don't get any squealing. You will spend under $120 for the parts."

1993 Nissan Maxima. Distributor rotor shaft has slight movement. Is this normal? Car missing.? Cannot find why car is missing. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Got fuel injector vaccum treatment. Distributor rotor is a screw set type.

infoman6617 replied: "here a thing to check in the top of the distributor shaft you see a little plug...under the rotor button theres a small screw under it... most people dont know about take a pocket screwdriver and pop it out and look and see if the screw is tight... something like this drove me nuts once also"

mdk68gto replied: "a little side to side motion is ok, you be the judge as to if it is excessive. i wish i had an answer for the miss but you replaced most of the common causes aside form a failing injector or plugged fuel filter,"

Ronnie Wrench replied: "Got fuel injector vacuum treatment?? With the engine running,unplug each injector lead one at a time to find the miss.Once done.Recheck plug gap and plug,wire,compression at that cylinder.If they all pass as good.Well, Nissan is known to have injector failures."

How do I fix my brakes that do not stop squeaking on a 2002 Nissan Maxima? I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with worn out breaks. The brakes squeak all the time, no matter the speed, driving forward or reversing. Occasionally when turning while breaking, there is a small grinding noise too. I know I need to replace the pads, but do the rotors need to be replaced? And does the caliper assembly need to be rebuilt? If there is anything else that should be done please let me know.

KaliforniaB replied: "easy move them from under the breaking pad and go with it!"

bowtiessuck replied: "thats hard to say without seeing the brakes, my guess would be the rotors at least need to be turned and new brake pads, its doubtful that you would need to rebuild callipers but not impossible but being that you are asking the question you did it is obvious that you have no brake experience so do yourself a favor and take it to a shop and pay them to correctly do the job for your safety and everyone around you"

kelly_f_1999 replied: "you can do it at home should remove rotors an dtak eto a shop to be turned sometimes you have to buy new ones it just depends on how wore down they are easy job if ones got any tools how to check brake poads video type how to replace brake pads video how to remove brake rotors video how to bleed brakes video and no caliber if its working is fine most of time out last the car my wife does her own brake jobs"

Nissa Maxima rotors & brakes?? I have a 2004 Nissan maxima, i would like to purchase some REASONABLY PRICED perf slotted rotors and brake pads......... where could i find such a thing?????

RAZR replied: "i actually needed the same thing let me just tell you dont be looking for a bargain cause they are not cheap "

Brakes for a 2000 NISSAN MAXIMA? Can anyone tell me what name to buy for brakes / Rotors for a 2000 Nissan Maxima. I was told to try WAGNER BRAKES, are they any good?? Any help or suggestions will help. Thanks.

R1volta replied: "Bendix are good. Advance Auto or Auto Zone have good prices"

lonewolfe38652 replied: "As long as you stay away from the really cheap brake pads you should be fine. A Mid-Grade or higher Ceramic Pad will work very well with a Nissan."

I have a Nissan Maxima 2005 with 50,000 miles and I have been told the rear pads and rotors need to be replace? Is this normal with only 50,000 miles? I had a Camry with over 80,000 and the brakes were in great shape. Anyone have any input for me? Also the garage wants to charge me $343.00 for just the rear brakes; is this high? Is this normal with only 50,000 miles? I had a Camry with over 80,000 and the brakes were in great shape and contrary to Burberry's response I was the sole owner of my Camry and sold it with 70% of the brakes still good on it. Anyone have any input for me? Also the garage wants to charge me $343.00 for just the rear brakes; is this high?

Burberry replied: "Brakes are supposed to be checked on and changed ever so often anyway. I'm sure your Camry has changed it's brakes several times throughout the whole 80k miles it went. Your brakes also wear off depending on how hard you brake. It is extremely dangerous to drive with bad brakes/rotors so you have to change it regardless. $343.00 is a good price if he is replacing BOTH rotors, and BOTH brake pads in the rear. If he's only doing brake pads (without rotors) for $343.00 then tell the guy to go screw himself and find someone else to do it."

John Paul replied: "Every car is different 50,000 miles for maxima brake pads is about right. $343.00 sounds like dealer prices. Nissan pads have a less likely chance of being noisy. See if your Nissan Dealer can inspect your brakes and turn rotors and replace the rear pads for a reasonable price. I would suspect if the wheels are taken off and a careful inspection is done you would also want your transmission fluid changed also at this time. Maxima uses a (toyota) ASIN transmission 5 speed auto that runs kind of hot. (that is my sales pitch)"

tak_10 replied: "80,000 miles and 70% of the brakes still good, that's impossible unless you stick your foot out and try to stop the car with your foot. But anyway, usually you need new brake pads changed 30,000 to 40,000 miles. $300 is fair price for dealer, you can get these parts for about $50 pair of pads, $130 rotors."

Windowphobe replied: "This is close to what I spent to redo the rear brakes on the vaguely-similar Infiniti I30 (at 95,000 miles)."

mickeypr13 replied: "yea that's a good price but a better 1 if you do it your self that way you can learn and have something to do during this boring summer its fun to learn and do it your self"

my 1990 nissan maxima lacks power this just happened out the blue when i hit the gas i get little to no power? if i start the car and pull off everythings ok the first stop i come to and attempt to pull off it seems like the car isn't getting gas it barely moves then when it gradually picks up it runs fine until i come to a stop .its fuel injected and i just changed the fuel filter ,plugs ,rotor,dist cap,plugwires.the car has been running fine up until the other day.trannys ok its not slipping in first gear.

Jody D replied: "Go get a diagnostics done. It sounds like the computer is kicking into limp home mode."

- Andrew - replied: "You might want to check you fuel injectors. When I had my 85 firebird, it was fuel injected and it had the same problem. My fuel injectors were clogged. You can try some of the fuel injector cleaner from a auto store. But if you dont see an improvment, I would suggest getting them replaced. Also, check your air filter. Some times your air filter can do it, it might not be letting enough air in."

vondalecki replied: "Ugh. You'll have to take it to a nissan dealer. Maximas are great when new, but as they get older, they have sssoooo many problems and you'll wind up replacing half the car before you or your mechanic find the problem. You should also check for recalls-you may be able to get some of your already spent money back for repairs. Here's the link for recalls"

yp_mike_kinsey replied: "have a complete tune up done. change all filters"

farplaces replied: "Well, a good tuneup never hurt any vehicle, for sure...even if not needed...!!! In the future when you "self-diagnose" a problem, keep in mind that all vehicles "move" on 3 powers...electrical, fuel and transmission. Before extensive replacement costs, consider each power more carefully...ask yourself a lot of questions and do a little research before getting into extensive costs for repair... A bad transmission will slip and / or chug when changing gears and you will not only feel it but will usually hear it as well... When fuel injectors quit the engine will run real rough and you will definitely feel it because you have less cylinders firing... It is not unsual to lose electric to one or more injectors and losing even one will be noticed when accellerating, I assure you... Injectors or sparkplugs fouled...? WHY...??? These are but two classic symptoms to be aware of... Now...the third major cause of power loss is fuel... The first consideration would be to replace the fuel filter canister which is usually under the hood but often may be found attached to the undercarriage attached to the frame. Check close for these as you may have both. The cost range is from $12.00 to $35.00 for a replacement gas filter cannister. That can easily be installed at home by a lay-person... The next devil of the fuel system is the exhaust system. If that catalytic converter has become plugged up then exhaust cannot escape. That means sufficient air cannot get into the air intake manifolld to keep the proper fuel mixture needed to develope the needed horsepower to move that beast as required... No air out...no air in...!!! Catalytic converters often have a foul odour when going bad but this is not so all the time because the odour is usually caused by low-grade-octane gasoline or gasoline that has too much corn fuel additive...over 10%, the maximum level that manufacturers recommend. Not all people use low-grade octane... If you can disconnect the front of the catalytic converter and drive the vehicle a mile or so then you can be sure you have found the problem if you have regained power... If you have not found the problem with doing that then a computer analysis is required... Avoid running low on fuel as the fuel pump will suck in particles of rust that is normal to be floating and resting on the fuel tank bottom... The alternative search would be to pay for an exhaust diagnostic test which will include an exhaust pressure test. I believe the cost for that to be a minimum of $75.00 on average. A system analysis could be twice that amount and would be the last resort but, if the problem is in the compputer, it must be done... Good luck..."

1987 Nissan Maxima cranks very fast but will not start? I recently ran out of gas. I put gas in it, it ran fine. Went out later and put more gas in it, and it stalled and will not start back up. I keep running the battery down. With jumper cables, it will crank but it is real fast but it will not start. It is getting spark: checked coil with pliers, it's getting fuel, I replaced the rotor button and cap, but still no start. Any ideas?? Rotor button turns.

Dan replied: "did the timing belt break?"

Keith replied: "I agree with Dan. If you haven't hurt the motor already ( valves, etc.) by cranking it over and over again, you will. Get it checked."

does anyone know how to change the rear brakes on a Nissan Maxima 1996? having 2 issues 1. the rotor does not want to come off its like its stuck cuse its rusted. 2. how do i push the cylinder back for the new pads cause i opened the nut on the flex hoze to release presure so it can move back. Any Ideas

Don't know everything ! replied: "Not to familiar with foreign autos but I'll give it a shot. If your Maxima is front wheel drive the rear rotor probably has a wheel bearing in it that is held with a large nut which has to be removed to remove the rotor. Use a C-clamp to press the "puck" back into the caliper so new pads can be installed. If you've opened the bleeder to press the "puck" into the caliper make sure to check the master cylinder for proper fluid level before driving."

Thomas S replied: "First remove the clips that retain the cables. Then remove a bolt that holds the part of the assembly that slides to squeeze the brake pads.Then you must disconnect the cable from the adjuster mechanism. Now swing the Caliper assembly away from it's normal position, and remove the pads. Now the piston may be turned into the bore, a special tool is useful at this point."

nizmo_07 replied: "1.TO TAKE YOUR ROTOR OFF USE A HAMMER AND HIT IT,ARE YOU PUTING NEW ROTORS OR ARE YOU GOING TO TURN THE ROTORS WITH A BRAKE LATHE. 2.TO PUSH THE PISTON BACK YOU WILL NEED A SPECIAL TOOL YOU CAN BUY AT SEARS LOOKS LIKE A BLOCK YOU WILL NEED AN EXTENSION AND A 3/8 RATCHET TURNTHE PISTON SLOWLY ORE THE PISTON WILL MOVE"