C replied: "the heads bolt onto the engine block, in between the 2 there is the head gasket. there are a lot of small channels for coolant / oil / exhaust and all... when you run a car hot enough thats one thing that happens from the metal warping. the block could be ruined, either or both of the heads could be ruined, but regardless that head gasket is shot.
white smoke out the exhaust pipe means a coolant channel is mixing w/ an exhaust channel. your coolant is burning and coming out the pipes.
for the oil in #2 cylinder and 'on top' sounds like an oil channel may've connected to an intake channel, the oil can come back up into your air intake, your air filter might be soaked in it or it may not have gotten quite that far.
how you find out for sure..... is a compression test. you don't have to buy the gauge, you can rent it from autozone or your auto parts store. a compression gauge screws into your spark plug holes and tells you the compression in the cylinder.
if you have a distributor cap unplug the middle wire, if you got ignition modules unplug them. undo 1 plug at a time and screw the gauge in, crank it to see where the pressure caps out at. nothing should be below 100psi. usual healthy engines can be like 115-130 depending on what you have, and a book on your car will tell you what it should actually be. and as well, the different cylinders should all have relatively the same compression (like w/in 15-20psi)...
once the heads are removed is when you find out how the block looks, you take a feeler gauge to it to ensure its alright. and you take the head(s) + intake to a machine shop, they will ensure it is completely flat on the mating surface and that it is not warped.
to remove the head you have to remove the intake, exhaust manifold, valve covers and any pulleys / etc that are in the way. it will finally expose the head bolts to undo, it is a lot of work and will not be something quick to do. if you don't have a book on the engine (haynes/chiltons) you must have one and it can help w/ the removal. for putting things back together as well all those bolts have specific torque specs that the book will have so you don't have a problem when its back together.
you should not need to drop the engine.there will be a lot of bolts and nuts in horrible places where you have to fanagle wrenches and sockets, cut your hands to shit and get oil stains on your hands.
long as everything else is ok even w/ just a bad head gasket this will still be a major pain.
Life lesson: If your car is hot, pull over. Don't try to make it, pull over!!! wait for it to cool down and refill your coolant (From the radiator!!! not just the reservoir!) if it comes right back out you HAVE to find out where its comin out and fix that.
if you run your car hot you cause severe damage.
oh ya, if you get it fixed ....youll still need to fix the original issue that caused you to overheat (coolant leak or whatever). and as well, you may expect some other new issues may have arisen from the mess."
Prince$$ replied: "plain and simple.....your head gaskets gone and mayb e cracked the head, so you need to do a pressure test but either way you need a motor.
:o)
L"
How can an owner check the trans fluid on an '01 Volvo XC70 Cross Country wagon with Geartronic manumatic? My mother has an (you guessed it!) '01 Volvo XC70 Cross Country wagon with the Geartronic manumatic tranny and AWD. Aside from the various electrical bugs that keep popping up, it seems that Volvo (or Ford maybe) decided that delicate operations such as check the automatic transmission fluid are best left to the elite personnel at the Volvo dealerships. I searched every inch of the engine compartment, and even crawled underneath to see what little I could of the tranny itself. I even betrayed my masculine imperitive and...gulp...checked the owners manual. And even that told me nothing. Oil dipstick? Check. Coolant? Check. Power steering, brake fluid, washer fluid? Check. No ATF dipstick. I even mentioned it to a guy at a garage when we were talking. "Oh, sure, it's there somewhere. Here, I'll show ya!" he says, before proceeding to search high and low for the next quarter hour, only to finally admit defeat.
So, is there some wise and learn'd person out there who knows the answer to the great mystery of How To Make Sure Your Volvo Tranny Isn't About To Commit Hara-kiri? If so, I would be most grateful to you. And so on and so forth. Seriously, I can't imagine a sealed automatic trans. Hell, I can't imagine a tranny you can't check/top off the fluid of either. So much for what I knew.
So when the car is 15, or 20 years old, I'll still have to find a special shop and pay $150 bucks to check the ATF? Sweet. That really sucks for the car companies, huh? Now everyone without a brand new, under warranty car is screwed. I thought it was bad enough that they engineer them to die by 100,000 miles. Not that it matters to them. They wouldn't want to have to PAY any of that warranty crap. For those lucky enough to have it. Any wonder that car companies in general are going under? Ethically, they're not all that much better than the tobacco companies. Screw the poor dude....I got profit margins to make. I mean, taxes on three beachside properties in three cities gets pretty steep. I may have to put of my third vacation this year. Damn, why does life have to be so hard.
former customer replied: "the fluid level is checked by using special equipment for adding trans fluid and a scanner to determine proper transmission fluid temperature. You can't do it yourself.
You don't need to check the level unless you are leaking fluid. This keeps shadetree mechanics and untrained jiffy lube techs and even owners of the vehicle with the best of intentions from topping off the fluid with the wrong stuff and ruining a perfectly good transmission."
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